The island of Sulawesi is one of the remotest parts of Indonesia. Its unique jigsaw-puzzle-piece shape creates four peninsulas, each of which represents a separate region of the island. Most visitors travel first to the southern region and its capital Makassar (Ujung Pandang), as this is the island’s main entry point and largest city. Sulawesi’s second city is Manado in the north.

The real highlights of Sulawesi are found in the surrounding seas and its lush volcanic interior. Fantastic jungle trekking is available in the pristine uncrowded forests of Lore Lindu National Park and Dumoga Bone National Park. Dramatic active volcanoes surround charming highland towns like Tomohon, a great base in itself for treks and freshwater lakes.

However, Sulawesi is best known for its superlative scuba diving, which is ranked among the world’s finest. Sites like Bunaken Island and the Togian Islands are legendary for intrepid divers willing to make the journey.

Keep in mind that Sulawesi is a remote and rustic part of the world. Infrastructure is basic and amenities scarce in all but the main cities like Manado and Makassar. There are also underlying ethnic and religious tensions that occasionally flare up so plan carefully before making the journey to this adventurous destination.

Accommodation in Sulawesi is either simple or luxurious. There is virtually no mid-range lodging scene here and most visitors opt to splash out on a nice beachside or jungle resort. Booking in advance is recommended, with online deals offering the best prices.

Travelling to Sulawesi usually involves flying into Makassar or Manado from another major Indonesian airport. Most flights are domestic, with flying being the best way to go in this rugged part of Indonesia.

Lying as it does just along the equator, Sulawesi’s tropical climate changes little throughout the year. Its rainy season runs from November to April. During this period, rain is almost a daily event with storms often lasting several days and drenching the land. The advantage of the rainy season is that the air tends to be more refreshing and the temperatures slightly cooler due to breezes. This is the low tourist season, so things can get very quiet.

Sulawesi’s dry season occurs from May to October. Bright sunny skies make conditions slightly hotter and drier than in the wet season, luring more visitors for the peak travel season. The months in between these two seasons are brief windows of very pleasant weather as the monsoons shift their movement. Late April and early November can be excellent times to visit, as the skies are blue and the air has the expectant feel of transition.